diff --git a/docker/Dockerfile b/docker/Dockerfile
index f4d8e6c92575..db1869bca5f5 100644
--- a/docker/Dockerfile
+++ b/docker/Dockerfile
@@ -38,10 +38,10 @@ FROM docker.io/python:${PYTHON_VERSION}-slim as requirements
 # Here we use it to set up a cache for apt (and below for pip), to improve
 # rebuild speeds on slow connections.
 RUN \
-   --mount=type=cache,target=/var/cache/apt,sharing=locked \
-   --mount=type=cache,target=/var/lib/apt,sharing=locked \
- apt-get update -qq && apt-get install -yqq git \
-    && rm -rf /var/lib/apt/lists/*
+  --mount=type=cache,target=/var/cache/apt,sharing=locked \
+  --mount=type=cache,target=/var/lib/apt,sharing=locked \
+  apt-get update -qq && apt-get install -yqq git \
+  && rm -rf /var/lib/apt/lists/*
 
 # We install poetry in its own build stage to avoid its dependencies conflicting with
 # synapse's dependencies.
@@ -77,22 +77,31 @@ FROM docker.io/python:${PYTHON_VERSION}-slim as builder
 
 # install the OS build deps
 RUN \
-   --mount=type=cache,target=/var/cache/apt,sharing=locked \
-   --mount=type=cache,target=/var/lib/apt,sharing=locked \
- apt-get update -qq && apt-get install -yqq \
-    build-essential \
-    libffi-dev \
-    libjpeg-dev \
-    libpq-dev \
-    libssl-dev \
-    libwebp-dev \
-    libxml++2.6-dev \
-    libxslt1-dev \
-    openssl \
-    rustc \
-    zlib1g-dev \
-    git \
-    && rm -rf /var/lib/apt/lists/*
+  --mount=type=cache,target=/var/cache/apt,sharing=locked \
+  --mount=type=cache,target=/var/lib/apt,sharing=locked \
+  apt-get update -qq && apt-get install -yqq \
+  build-essential \
+  libffi-dev \
+  libjpeg-dev \
+  libpq-dev \
+  libssl-dev \
+  libwebp-dev \
+  libxml++2.6-dev \
+  libxslt1-dev \
+  openssl \
+  #rustc \
+  curl \
+  zlib1g-dev \
+  git \
+  && rm -rf /var/lib/apt/lists/*
+
+#RUN apt-cache policy rustc
+
+RUN curl --proto '=https' --tlsv1.2 -sSf https://sh.rustup.rs | bash -s -- -y
+# Add .cargo/bin to PATH
+ENV PATH="/root/.cargo/bin:${PATH}"
+# Check cargo is visible
+RUN cargo --help
 
 # To speed up rebuilds, install all of the dependencies before we copy over
 # the whole synapse project, so that this layer in the Docker cache can be
@@ -123,19 +132,19 @@ LABEL org.opencontainers.image.source='https://github.com/matrix-org/synapse.git
 LABEL org.opencontainers.image.licenses='Apache-2.0'
 
 RUN \
-   --mount=type=cache,target=/var/cache/apt,sharing=locked \
-   --mount=type=cache,target=/var/lib/apt,sharing=locked \
+  --mount=type=cache,target=/var/cache/apt,sharing=locked \
+  --mount=type=cache,target=/var/lib/apt,sharing=locked \
   apt-get update -qq && apt-get install -yqq \
-    curl \
-    gosu \
-    libjpeg62-turbo \
-    libpq5 \
-    libwebp6 \
-    xmlsec1 \
-    libjemalloc2 \
-    libssl-dev \
-    openssl \
-    && rm -rf /var/lib/apt/lists/*
+  curl \
+  gosu \
+  libjpeg62-turbo \
+  libpq5 \
+  libwebp6 \
+  xmlsec1 \
+  libjemalloc2 \
+  libssl-dev \
+  openssl \
+  && rm -rf /var/lib/apt/lists/*
 
 COPY --from=builder /install /usr/local
 COPY ./docker/start.py /start.py
@@ -146,4 +155,4 @@ EXPOSE 8008/tcp 8009/tcp 8448/tcp
 ENTRYPOINT ["/start.py"]
 
 HEALTHCHECK --start-period=5s --interval=15s --timeout=5s \
-    CMD curl -fSs http://localhost:8008/health || exit 1
+  CMD curl -fSs http://localhost:8008/health || exit 1
diff --git a/docker/conf/homeserver.yaml b/docker/conf/homeserver.yaml
index f10f78a48cd2..e5e8243876fd 100644
--- a/docker/conf/homeserver.yaml
+++ b/docker/conf/homeserver.yaml
@@ -184,3 +184,18 @@ trusted_key_servers:
 
 password_config:
    enabled: true
+
+opentracing:
+    enabled: true
+    jaeger_config:
+      # Sample everything
+      sampler:
+        type: const
+        param: 1
+      # via https://github.com/jaegertracing/jaeger-client-python/issues/47#issuecomment-493497439
+      local_agent:
+        reporting_host: "host.docker.internal"
+        reporting_port: 6831
+      #  Logging whether spans were started and reported
+      #
+      logging: true
diff --git a/poetry.lock b/poetry.lock
index b62c24ae1672..2a51c1e72e7f 100644
--- a/poetry.lock
+++ b/poetry.lock
@@ -177,7 +177,7 @@ optional = false
 python-versions = "*"
 
 [package.extras]
-test = ["flake8 (==3.7.8)", "hypothesis (==3.55.3)"]
+test = ["hypothesis (==3.55.3)", "flake8 (==3.7.8)"]
 
 [[package]]
 name = "constantly"
@@ -435,8 +435,8 @@ optional = false
 python-versions = ">=3.6"
 
 [package.extras]
-test = ["pytest", "pytest-trio", "pytest-asyncio", "testpath", "trio", "async-timeout"]
-trio = ["trio", "async-generator"]
+trio = ["async-generator", "trio"]
+test = ["async-timeout", "trio", "testpath", "pytest-asyncio", "pytest-trio", "pytest"]
 
 [[package]]
 name = "jinja2"
@@ -535,8 +535,8 @@ attrs = "*"
 importlib-metadata = {version = ">=1.4", markers = "python_version < \"3.8\""}
 
 [package.extras]
-dev = ["tox", "twisted", "aiounittest", "mypy (==0.910)", "black (==22.3.0)", "flake8 (==4.0.1)", "isort (==5.9.3)", "build (==0.8.0)", "twine (==4.0.1)"]
-test = ["tox", "twisted", "aiounittest"]
+test = ["aiounittest", "twisted", "tox"]
+dev = ["twine (==4.0.1)", "build (==0.8.0)", "isort (==5.9.3)", "flake8 (==4.0.1)", "black (==22.3.0)", "mypy (==0.910)", "aiounittest", "twisted", "tox"]
 
 [[package]]
 name = "matrix-synapse-ldap3"
@@ -552,7 +552,7 @@ service-identity = "*"
 Twisted = ">=15.1.0"
 
 [package.extras]
-dev = ["matrix-synapse", "tox", "ldaptor", "mypy (==0.910)", "types-setuptools", "black (==22.3.0)", "flake8 (==4.0.1)", "isort (==5.9.3)"]
+dev = ["isort (==5.9.3)", "flake8 (==4.0.1)", "black (==22.3.0)", "types-setuptools", "mypy (==0.910)", "ldaptor", "tox", "matrix-synapse"]
 
 [[package]]
 name = "mccabe"
@@ -820,10 +820,10 @@ optional = false
 python-versions = ">=3.6"
 
 [package.extras]
+tests = ["coverage[toml] (==5.0.4)", "pytest (>=6.0.0,<7.0.0)"]
+docs = ["zope.interface", "sphinx-rtd-theme", "sphinx"]
+dev = ["pre-commit", "mypy", "coverage[toml] (==5.0.4)", "pytest (>=6.0.0,<7.0.0)", "cryptography (>=3.3.1)", "zope.interface", "sphinx-rtd-theme", "sphinx"]
 crypto = ["cryptography (>=3.3.1)"]
-dev = ["sphinx", "sphinx-rtd-theme", "zope.interface", "cryptography (>=3.3.1)", "pytest (>=6.0.0,<7.0.0)", "coverage[toml] (==5.0.4)", "mypy", "pre-commit"]
-docs = ["sphinx", "sphinx-rtd-theme", "zope.interface"]
-tests = ["pytest (>=6.0.0,<7.0.0)", "coverage[toml] (==5.0.4)"]
 
 [[package]]
 name = "pymacaroons"
@@ -1007,6 +1007,21 @@ python-versions = ">=3.7"
 [package.extras]
 idna2008 = ["idna"]
 
+[[package]]
+name = "rust-python-jaeger-reporter"
+version = "0.1.20"
+description = "A faster reporter for the python `jaeger-client` that reports spans in a native background thread."
+category = "main"
+optional = false
+python-versions = ">=3.6"
+develop = false
+
+[package.source]
+type = "git"
+url = "https://github.com/erikjohnston/rust-jaeger-python-client.git"
+reference = "master"
+resolved_reference = "27754b5f56b4099374c389f677911f7af852a00e"
+
 [[package]]
 name = "secretstorage"
 version = "3.3.1"
@@ -1563,7 +1578,7 @@ url_preview = ["lxml"]
 [metadata]
 lock-version = "1.1"
 python-versions = "^3.7.1"
-content-hash = "c24bbcee7e86dbbe7cdbf49f91a25b310bf21095452641e7440129f59b077f78"
+content-hash = "0fc4f4fc7606ac12a18e1e5657f0f45cfa46442d46053ea106e0e28c53bcbaaf"
 
 [metadata.files]
 attrs = [
@@ -2394,6 +2409,7 @@ rfc3986 = [
     {file = "rfc3986-2.0.0-py2.py3-none-any.whl", hash = "sha256:50b1502b60e289cb37883f3dfd34532b8873c7de9f49bb546641ce9cbd256ebd"},
     {file = "rfc3986-2.0.0.tar.gz", hash = "sha256:97aacf9dbd4bfd829baad6e6309fa6573aaf1be3f6fa735c8ab05e46cecb261c"},
 ]
+rust-python-jaeger-reporter = []
 secretstorage = [
     {file = "SecretStorage-3.3.1-py3-none-any.whl", hash = "sha256:422d82c36172d88d6a0ed5afdec956514b189ddbfb72fefab0c8a1cee4eaf71f"},
     {file = "SecretStorage-3.3.1.tar.gz", hash = "sha256:fd666c51a6bf200643495a04abb261f83229dcb6fd8472ec393df7ffc8b6f195"},
diff --git a/pyproject.toml b/pyproject.toml
index 4da1331c932d..95c62b3edd86 100644
--- a/pyproject.toml
+++ b/pyproject.toml
@@ -182,6 +182,7 @@ hiredis = { version = "*", optional = true }
 Pympler = { version = "*", optional = true }
 parameterized = { version = ">=0.7.4", optional = true }
 idna = { version = ">=2.5", optional = true }
+rust-python-jaeger-reporter = {git = "https://github.com/erikjohnston/rust-jaeger-python-client.git"}
 
 [tool.poetry.extras]
 # NB: Packages that should be part of `pip install matrix-synapse[all]` need to be specified
diff --git a/scripts-dev/complement.sh b/scripts-dev/complement.sh
index 6381f7092e67..33f729397075 100755
--- a/scripts-dev/complement.sh
+++ b/scripts-dev/complement.sh
@@ -101,6 +101,7 @@ if [ -z "$skip_docker_build" ]; then
     echo_if_github "::group::Build Docker image: matrixdotorg/synapse"
     docker build -t matrixdotorg/synapse \
       --build-arg TEST_ONLY_SKIP_DEP_HASH_VERIFICATION \
+      --progress=plain \
       -f "docker/Dockerfile" .
     echo_if_github "::endgroup::"
 
diff --git a/synapse/api/auth.py b/synapse/api/auth.py
index 6e6eaf3805bd..c6f8733e6017 100644
--- a/synapse/api/auth.py
+++ b/synapse/api/auth.py
@@ -30,7 +30,12 @@
 from synapse.appservice import ApplicationService
 from synapse.http import get_request_user_agent
 from synapse.http.site import SynapseRequest
-from synapse.logging.opentracing import active_span, force_tracing, start_active_span
+from synapse.logging.opentracing import (
+    active_span,
+    force_tracing,
+    start_active_span,
+    trace,
+)
 from synapse.storage.databases.main.registration import TokenLookupResult
 from synapse.types import Requester, UserID, create_requester
 
@@ -563,6 +568,7 @@ def get_access_token_from_request(request: Request) -> str:
 
             return query_params[0].decode("ascii")
 
+    @trace
     async def check_user_in_room_or_world_readable(
         self, room_id: str, user_id: str, allow_departed_users: bool = False
     ) -> Tuple[str, Optional[str]]:
diff --git a/synapse/federation/federation_client.py b/synapse/federation/federation_client.py
index 842f5327c227..c1f96328b44a 100644
--- a/synapse/federation/federation_client.py
+++ b/synapse/federation/federation_client.py
@@ -61,6 +61,7 @@
 )
 from synapse.federation.transport.client import SendJoinResponse
 from synapse.http.types import QueryParams
+from synapse.logging.opentracing import trace
 from synapse.types import JsonDict, UserID, get_domain_from_id
 from synapse.util.async_helpers import concurrently_execute
 from synapse.util.caches.expiringcache import ExpiringCache
@@ -233,6 +234,7 @@ async def claim_client_keys(
             destination, content, timeout
         )
 
+    @trace
     async def backfill(
         self, dest: str, room_id: str, limit: int, extremities: Collection[str]
     ) -> Optional[List[EventBase]]:
diff --git a/synapse/handlers/federation.py b/synapse/handlers/federation.py
index 3b5eaf515624..59580ef93e55 100644
--- a/synapse/handlers/federation.py
+++ b/synapse/handlers/federation.py
@@ -59,6 +59,7 @@
 from synapse.federation.federation_client import InvalidResponseError
 from synapse.http.servlet import assert_params_in_dict
 from synapse.logging.context import nested_logging_context
+from synapse.logging.opentracing import trace
 from synapse.metrics.background_process_metrics import run_as_background_process
 from synapse.module_api import NOT_SPAM
 from synapse.replication.http.federation import (
@@ -180,6 +181,7 @@ def __init__(self, hs: "HomeServer"):
                 "resume_sync_partial_state_room", self._resume_sync_partial_state_room
             )
 
+    @trace
     async def maybe_backfill(
         self, room_id: str, current_depth: int, limit: int
     ) -> bool:
diff --git a/synapse/handlers/federation_event.py b/synapse/handlers/federation_event.py
index 16f20c8be7bc..4429319265db 100644
--- a/synapse/handlers/federation_event.py
+++ b/synapse/handlers/federation_event.py
@@ -59,6 +59,7 @@
 from synapse.events.snapshot import EventContext
 from synapse.federation.federation_client import InvalidResponseError
 from synapse.logging.context import nested_logging_context
+from synapse.logging.opentracing import trace
 from synapse.metrics.background_process_metrics import run_as_background_process
 from synapse.replication.http.devices import ReplicationUserDevicesResyncRestServlet
 from synapse.replication.http.federation import (
@@ -560,6 +561,7 @@ async def update_state_for_partial_state_event(
                 event.event_id
             )
 
+    @trace
     async def backfill(
         self, dest: str, room_id: str, limit: int, extremities: Collection[str]
     ) -> None:
@@ -604,6 +606,7 @@ async def backfill(
             backfilled=True,
         )
 
+    @trace
     async def _get_missing_events_for_pdu(
         self, origin: str, pdu: EventBase, prevs: Set[str], min_depth: int
     ) -> None:
@@ -704,6 +707,7 @@ async def _get_missing_events_for_pdu(
         logger.info("Got %d prev_events", len(missing_events))
         await self._process_pulled_events(origin, missing_events, backfilled=False)
 
+    @trace
     async def _process_pulled_events(
         self, origin: str, events: Iterable[EventBase], backfilled: bool
     ) -> None:
@@ -742,6 +746,7 @@ async def _process_pulled_events(
             with nested_logging_context(ev.event_id):
                 await self._process_pulled_event(origin, ev, backfilled=backfilled)
 
+    @trace
     async def _process_pulled_event(
         self, origin: str, event: EventBase, backfilled: bool
     ) -> None:
diff --git a/synapse/handlers/pagination.py b/synapse/handlers/pagination.py
index 6262a35822f3..e1e34e3b16ba 100644
--- a/synapse/handlers/pagination.py
+++ b/synapse/handlers/pagination.py
@@ -24,6 +24,7 @@
 from synapse.api.filtering import Filter
 from synapse.events.utils import SerializeEventConfig
 from synapse.handlers.room import ShutdownRoomResponse
+from synapse.logging.opentracing import trace
 from synapse.metrics.background_process_metrics import run_as_background_process
 from synapse.storage.state import StateFilter
 from synapse.streams.config import PaginationConfig
@@ -416,6 +417,7 @@ async def purge_room(self, room_id: str, force: bool = False) -> None:
 
             await self._storage_controllers.purge_events.purge_room(room_id)
 
+    @trace
     async def get_messages(
         self,
         requester: Requester,
diff --git a/synapse/handlers/relations.py b/synapse/handlers/relations.py
index 0b63cd218615..a02fc45e710d 100644
--- a/synapse/handlers/relations.py
+++ b/synapse/handlers/relations.py
@@ -19,6 +19,7 @@
 from synapse.api.constants import RelationTypes
 from synapse.api.errors import SynapseError
 from synapse.events import EventBase, relation_from_event
+from synapse.logging.opentracing import trace
 from synapse.storage.databases.main.relations import _RelatedEvent
 from synapse.types import JsonDict, Requester, StreamToken, UserID
 from synapse.visibility import filter_events_for_client
@@ -364,6 +365,7 @@ async def _get_threads_for_events(
 
         return results
 
+    @trace
     async def get_bundled_aggregations(
         self, events: Iterable[EventBase], user_id: str
     ) -> Dict[str, BundledAggregations]:
diff --git a/synapse/storage/controllers/persist_events.py b/synapse/storage/controllers/persist_events.py
index cf98b0ab48f8..b4b904ff1d0a 100644
--- a/synapse/storage/controllers/persist_events.py
+++ b/synapse/storage/controllers/persist_events.py
@@ -778,7 +778,7 @@ async def _calculate_new_extremities(
             stale_forward_extremities_counter.observe(len(stale))
 
         return result
-
+    
     async def _get_new_state_after_events(
         self,
         room_id: str,
diff --git a/synapse/storage/controllers/state.py b/synapse/storage/controllers/state.py
index e08f956e6ef7..f584e6c92e2c 100644
--- a/synapse/storage/controllers/state.py
+++ b/synapse/storage/controllers/state.py
@@ -29,6 +29,7 @@
 
 from synapse.api.constants import EventTypes
 from synapse.events import EventBase
+from synapse.logging.opentracing import trace
 from synapse.storage.state import StateFilter
 from synapse.storage.util.partial_state_events_tracker import (
     PartialCurrentStateTracker,
@@ -175,6 +176,7 @@ def _get_state_groups_from_groups(
 
         return self.stores.state._get_state_groups_from_groups(groups, state_filter)
 
+    @trace
     async def get_state_for_events(
         self, event_ids: Collection[str], state_filter: Optional[StateFilter] = None
     ) -> Dict[str, StateMap[EventBase]]:
@@ -221,6 +223,7 @@ async def get_state_for_events(
 
         return {event: event_to_state[event] for event in event_ids}
 
+    @trace
     async def get_state_ids_for_events(
         self,
         event_ids: Collection[str],
@@ -283,6 +286,7 @@ async def get_state_for_event(
         )
         return state_map[event_id]
 
+    @trace
     async def get_state_ids_for_event(
         self, event_id: str, state_filter: Optional[StateFilter] = None
     ) -> StateMap[str]:
@@ -323,6 +327,7 @@ def get_state_for_groups(
             groups, state_filter or StateFilter.all()
         )
 
+    @trace
     async def get_state_group_for_events(
         self,
         event_ids: Collection[str],
diff --git a/synapse/storage/databases/main/stream.py b/synapse/storage/databases/main/stream.py
index 2590b52f7352..a347430aa7e3 100644
--- a/synapse/storage/databases/main/stream.py
+++ b/synapse/storage/databases/main/stream.py
@@ -58,6 +58,7 @@
 from synapse.api.filtering import Filter
 from synapse.events import EventBase
 from synapse.logging.context import make_deferred_yieldable, run_in_background
+from synapse.logging.opentracing import trace
 from synapse.storage._base import SQLBaseStore
 from synapse.storage.database import (
     DatabasePool,
@@ -1346,6 +1347,7 @@ def _paginate_room_events_txn(
 
         return rows, next_token
 
+    @trace
     async def paginate_room_events(
         self,
         room_id: str,
diff --git a/synapse/visibility.py b/synapse/visibility.py
index 9abbaa5a6464..d947edde66dd 100644
--- a/synapse/visibility.py
+++ b/synapse/visibility.py
@@ -23,6 +23,7 @@
 from synapse.events import EventBase
 from synapse.events.snapshot import EventContext
 from synapse.events.utils import prune_event
+from synapse.logging.opentracing import trace
 from synapse.storage.controllers import StorageControllers
 from synapse.storage.databases.main import DataStore
 from synapse.storage.state import StateFilter
@@ -51,6 +52,7 @@
 _HISTORY_VIS_KEY: Final[Tuple[str, str]] = (EventTypes.RoomHistoryVisibility, "")
 
 
+@trace
 async def filter_events_for_client(
     storage: StorageControllers,
     user_id: str,